Guess where I was for the last nine days?
CALIFORNIA!
Honestly, I could only take hearing that Katy Perry song so many times before I hopped on a plane. California the state may be domain of Prop 8 and the Terminator, but California the state of mind[1] is as enticing as gold in a riverbed. For an East Coaster like me, the West still holds the promise of everything good and pure in this world: pristine waters, crisp mountain air, verdant fields and trees like skyscrapers. All this without even CONSIDERING Muscle Beach.
A few months ago, Greer[2] and I hatched the plan. We flitted along a sunny Brooklyn boulevard, talking ourselves giddy about the coming summer, and stumbled on the notion of a cross-country trip. A red convertible, coast-to-coast. The ultimate American dream.
We scoured CVS for a map of the country and sat down to a Mexican brunch. My hands and mouth were full of tortilla chips, so Greer did most of the talking. She poured over cities and towns in scatterplots; I watched her move a finger across wide mountain ranges. I swallowed, tugged on my sweater tighter and broke the bad news: “I only have a week of vacation.”
We frowned at each other.
Greer is a teacher, so she has summers off, but my corporate lifestyle was a deal-breaker. Over the course of several weeks, we talked ourselves down from the ledge of Cross-Country Awesomeness to the respectable peak of West Coast Magic before ultimately arriving at the reasonable plateau of Coastal California Enjoyment. Eight days and a red-eye, San Francisco to San Diego, trundling along in a rental that was neither red nor a convertible.[3]
In the end, it didn’t matter a bit.
I boarded the plane with too many clothes and not enough reading material.
The Irish girl next to me asked for a piece of chewing gum; she’d never had Dentyne before. “It’s really strong,” I warned her.
She smiled shyly and looked away. As we taxied, I watched her face contort.
Then the rumbling, the choking whir in the belly of the plane, and we outstripped the buildings, Air Tran and Jet Blue, leaving the tarmac and earth beneath us. I looked out the window as we banked to the left, considering wavering light in the marshes, snaking waterways from a thousand feet up. As we buoyed through clouds, I began to dream.
To California. Bring your projections of all denominations: wild pinnacles in alien desert; weird perfection in LA faces; the surfers, the screenwriters, the meditative seekers. This is the land of the beautiful people (whether you mean hippies or bleach-blonde harlots), and like Led Zeppelin, we all want to follow a girl with flowers in her hair.[4]
I have another association.
All the times I’ve been to Australia[5], I’ve stopped in California en route. Los Angeles and San Francisco are gateways, circus-like airports where I rub shoulders with the world. Flight paths connect me with strangers for our first and only time, and I see them as they see me: wide-eyed, foreign, easily confused. Each step cements us in a present when we eagerly start random conversations, peek into all dark corners, and generally attempt to unwrap every molecule of this moment.
The last time I touched down in SFO, I missed my connecting flight.
Our plane was delayed by thunderstorms in Newark, and when I scrambled out of the aisle I sprinted to a new terminal, taking direction from shouting passers-by, willing my feet to fly. I arrived at the gate absent of breath, heaving and gesturing wildly, thrusting my ticket at an agent who simply shook his head.
“The door’s been closed,” he said, in a voice not unlike that of the Grim Reaper.
I pointed weakly toward the window. “But—I—can see—the plane—“
“I’m sorry.” He didn’t sound sorry. “The door of the plane has been closed.”
“They—can’t—open—it?”
He gave me a look. Only a fool would suggest to open a closed door. I grabbed the stitch in my side and attempted to stand, willing the tears back from my eyes. “When is the next flight?”
He glanced at the clock. A quarter to midnight. “Tomorrow night, 11:30PM.”
“What??”
“I’d recommend that you get here early.”
“Wha—but my flight was delayed!”
“I see that. So give yourself plenty of time tomorrow.”
By this point, a small group of travelers had gathered around us. I crumpled away from the counter and let them flood forward, giving floor to someone who would do the yelling for me. I’ve never been good at fighting, especially not as a customer. Instead, I stared at the useless bit of paper in my hands, brain blanking as hot tears littered my cheeks.
It wasn’t so bad, I tried telling myself. Surely I’ll find a place to sleep, and then I can explore San Francisco. And what with the time difference, I was bound to lose a day in translation anyway.
It didn’t work. I kept crying, split between frustration and disappointment, stalking around and scowling at the saleswomen in Duty Free. I’d been planning this trip for months, reserving every second of my Thanksgiving break to maximize my time in Sydney.
It was an important trip for a number of reasons. Australia is an adventure, this incredible island halfway around the world, and I was in love with the land and the sky and a certain man who lived there.[6] Tomorrow was my 24th birthday, and we’d planned a beach party complete with snags and champagne.[7] I’d fled a week of Jersey winter misery for the sparkle of Aussie summer, and instead I was trapped in some rinky-dink airport, aflame with frustration and desire for takeoff.
Life teaches us patience only when we most resent it.
That night, I took the BART to Berkeley and bunked with a friend from high school. I woke up grateful that I’d slept in a bed (instead of on a plane or, you know, the street). I swallowed as much of the city as I could stomach; I wandered the UC campus, the hippie-paved streets. I got lost in Chinatown and gorged on Mexican[8] in the Mission. I spent the day hiking the hills of downtown San Francisco and left a glittering city night.
SFO found me with a loaded suitcase and a new mindset. When yesterday’s agent took my ticket, I didn’t even slap him across the face.
My time in the air, those long dragging hours, softened with weightless curiosity. As my birthday stretched across an international dateline, I felt myself dissolving. Who was this person, loaded with desire? What did she want from the wide, sleeping world? Beneath the cumulus, beyond 10,000 miles, what was she looking for?
Two years later, I stared out the window and saw San Francisco spread out below us, a collision of colors along the coast. Here I was, descending into memory, the last American place that sang to me of Aus. My heart lifted.
I saw the Pacific spill like ink into the horizon. I watched the sun as we chased it, pursuer and pursuant each sinking in flight. Beyond these waters, past the gate of the city, a world I loved waited in darkness. Flying now on the back of the ocean, dawn came to break in white light across those cliffs.
I would not come with it.
The girl next to me had fallen asleep. Her mother stroked her hair. I shifted in my seat, and still I wondered: what were we looking for?
[1] See what I did there?
[2] My best friend since age ten.
[3] See photo above. We did get a sunroof, but it broke.
[6] He didn’t take me out much, but I can’t really fault him for that.
[7]Snag=sausage. Classy, I know.